Welcome to beautiful Cresiano, population 500 people, 1000 boulders. A boulderer’s dream, nightmare and promise land.

Cresciano is located in the Italian canton of Ticino Switzerland. This is a climbing area legendary in my mind due to the Dosage series of climbing films. We decided that we needed to work off all of the pasta & proscuitto weight we put on in Italy. This town, just north of the Italian border about 1.5 hours from Milano, would prove perfect.

There was supposed to be somewhere to stay with hay floors in a barn but we guessed there would be some cheap hotel kick’n around. Eventually we found the only hostel in the half horse town of Cresciano and to our complete surprise it was a brand new uber modern hostel with state of the art kitchen and climbing magazines galore. This would be perfect, we could climb all day and then stink up the kitchen with some form of garlicy concoction at night.

Cresciano has no grocery stores so we had to make the 3 km walk/run to Claro for our staples. But enough about the boring technical details, let’s climb!

Cresciano has a huge number of boulders situated a half hour up-hill hike from town, a hike that is definitely a good warm-up. Also a hike that punishes you following a bottle of wine from the previous evening.

You could spend a long time in this forest and work your way up from v0 to v15 if you have the patience. The climbing is very technical on gneiss with surprisingly good holds for granite rock. Don’t be fooled, lots of slopers and many difficult top-outs but overall an amazingly fun type of climbing. This quickly became one of my favourite bouldering areas. One problem! Ticks!

Those pesky ninja trained arachnids cramped more than just our style. The endless tick-checks ate up time and the nightly post-climbing showers messed up my hair. Whatever it took to not catch Lyme disease or TBE. Apparently there has been a large increase in TBE cases in parts of Switzerland further to the north this year. Many of the areas we went to would have our skin crawling when we checked our pad and bags. They are sneaky buggers, hiding out on ferns waiting to hitch a ride to who knows where.

Well we survived the ticks and the tickmarks in Cresciano. I even got to cast my eyes on the famous Dreamtime, the World’s first v15/8c,
an amazing line that I will plant into my subconcious and work on every night as I sleep ad infinitum.

I definitely want to come back to boulder in Ticino and also check out Chironico and Magic Wood. Next time we will make sure to have the trip coincide with cooler/dryer temps to help with those slopers.

By the way, I hate unnecessarily low sit starts.

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  • yodabear
    1 Aug 2010 | Permalink | Reply

    Is that a new pad I see? i also love wolfe’s creepy little laughs in motivational bee

  • Rico Suave
    1 Aug 2010 | Permalink | Reply

    We got a pad with a durable waterproof plastic coating in Arco. It’ll be perfect for winter bouldier missions. And I loved those creepy laughs as well.

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